Up Close To Cape Horn

By Jonny Blair


Years ago on a documentary, Michael Palin landed on Cape Horn in Chile. This small island is the southernmost tip of realistic liveable land on planet earth. All that lies south is the ice cold continent of Antarctica. I was off to Cape Horn![]

Cape Horn is in Tierra del Fuego. A series of islands owned jointly by Argentina and Chile, however Cape Horn is on the Chilean side. What a great name - Cape Horn - it just sounds inspiring and makes you want to see it. That was the plan and we were on our way!

It's not cheap to land on the Cape of Horn and Michael Palin got it all paid for so that's why he could afford it. He was a posh English type on a rich travel budget. I backpacked my way to Antarctica so to land on the Horn sadly wasn't within my budget. Besides, Chilean officials do not allow any ships to go tithin a certain distance of Cape Horn, especially in strong waters - it's around 12 or 13 miles for the usual proximity to the horn, unless special permission has been granted.

The boat we were sailing on was a mighty fine vessel. Having been made in Denmark and registered in Liberia it was now making regular journeys from Antarctica to Argentina! We didn't catch a glimspe of Cape Horn at all on our departure from Argentina and in fact we headed into the dreaded Drake Passage late at night so even passing by the area close most of the passengers on board would have been asleep. Plus we didn't actually go near Cape Horn on the way down, as it's further west. []

Russell and I had talked about whether or not we would see Cape Horn on the way back. Indeed the day before they had shown us a Cape Horn documentary which had us wondering. I asked a few of the leaders and they were tight lipped about it.

On the way back up on the Drake Passage most of us noticed the ship had changed direction slightly and now appeared to be heading north west rather than directly north. As Cape Horn was north west of us, it became clear that we were indeed going to be passing by Cape Horn!

On the evening of our final ascent up the Drake Passage the visit to view Cape Horn was finally confirmed by the crew amid a joyous response. We were told at the recap of the day and the briefing session that we would indeed be sailing close to Cape Horn for a view at 5am the next morning.

So we were all set to see Cape Horn in the flesh and get up close to it but this was also the final night on board our ship. This meant a late one in the bar up toasting to our amazing trip and watching the sunset on one side and rise on the other side of the boat almost simultaneously at 2 am. By 3am I was asleep and ready to be wakened up for the viewing of the magical Cape Horn.

After 2 hours sleep the alarms went off and I was up waiting to see Cape Horn, we assembled on deck and it was by around 6.30 am that we finally got close to Cape Horn - an incredibly exciting moment for all concerned!

The announcement from the bridge confirmed that the island tip ahead was indeed Cape Horn and that we had been given permission due to the favourable weather to breach the 12 - 13 mile barrier and get a bit closer to Cape Horn.

It was straight upstairs to the For'd Deck for the fantastic morning view of the fabulous Cabo De Hornos. In the end we got within 3 miles of Cape Horn! It wasn't even a dream. I saw Cape Horn for real. Totally immense. Been there, done that, didn't stand on the land there.




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